Sunday, 27 November 2011

Morelia

I cannot imagine that I forgot Morelia. I was checking out my photo archives and I realized that I have been there two years ago. It doesn't happen to me very often. Well it does with movies and books but never with places. Sclerosis.
Why I didn't enjoy it then? (that must be a reason why I forgot about it) It is like a perfectly cut Italian suit and I use a Italian adjective no without reason. If you show the picture of the downtown to a random person I bet he would say that this is south of Italy.
Frankly, I am always wondering why many of Latin American cities looks like Italy not Spain.
I went there for The Morelia International Film Festival. It was a bit disappointing experience. Whenever you go for such an event you expect a hundredths of cinema-lovers, movies being shown in an old theaters, warehouses, backyards, squares...but not in the multiplex. That totally spoils the atmosphere! (I know that it is maybe cheaper and easier from logistic point of view, but c'mon...). The movie selection was OK, but once again not great. The Hollywood blockbusters and movie stars are omnipresent...Fucking globalism.
Morelia has everything that a city needs: nice main square, surrounded by archways, with comfy benches and casting shadow, all-year green trees, magnificent cathedral and interesting, walkable downtown.
After visiting Morelia I am more and more fascinated with colonial house. In a couple of last months I have seen dozens from the Spanish times up to the one form twenties and thirties of the last century, but I have never seen a modern or contemporary interpretation. Probably Guatemala and Nicaragua are too poor but Mexico, DF for sure not. The first one I have seen is a very good example how to use the idea in a modernist-ish way. In the seat of foundation of Kurimazutto Kalach used simple forms, local materials, traditional scheme and constructive solution. My favorite part is he backyard with a thick, green garden...
Getting back to Morelia. Mexican food is well know for tacos, burritos (!), tortillas, frijoles but a local specialty is gazpacho. You can forget about the one you have tried in Spain.
You chop finely pineapple, mango and jicama add some freshly squeezed orange juice and mix it, put some picante and sprinkle the soup thing with fresh cottage type cheese. Yami!

Ciągle w Michoacan. Wreszcie w Moreli.
Morelia to dla mnie najbardziej włoskie z meksykańskich miast; place, ulice, pałace, kościoły sprawiają wrażenie, że jesteśmy gdzieś w Pugli, Calabri czy na Sycyli i to palące słońce.
Ostatnio zastanawia mnie czemu właściwie miasta ameryki łacińskiej są bardziej "italiańskie" niż hiszpańskie. Ciągle nie wiem.
Pojechałem przede wszytkim na Festiwal Filmowy w Moreli. I tu spotakło mnie wielkie rozczarowanie. Jak myślę festiwal filmowy to widzę stare kina, małe kafjeki, rynek Kazimierza, namioty gdzie puszczają filmy, kinomanów, aktorów. A tu heca. Wszystko było w multipleksie! Może i selekcja filmów była niezła, ale niestety Hollywood i tu się bezczelnie panoszy. Wygranym dla mnie i dla jury był film Fecha de Canducidad czyli Data Ważnośći czego zapewne nie obejrzycia w kinach w Polsce, niestety.
A i gazpacho. U nas i wszędzie znane to hiszpańskie z pomidorów, a tu niespodzianka gazpacho owocowe.Kroisz mango, ananasa i jicamę (sprawdziałem jicama to po polsku Kłębian kątowaty -pięknie!) w dorbną kosteczkę, wyciskasz sok z dojrzałych pomarańczy, dodajesz chili i mieszasz, podajesz z twarożkiem wiejskim. Pychota!











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