SICILY

GENERAL PREFACE

I am fed up with taking pictures, it is not enough. I wanted to tell the stories behind them. Where was the picture taken? Why? How was there? Is it worth visiting? The supremacy of mass-media pop culture where news, stories, tragedies are told by picture is appalling. Paradoxically everything in here is a paean to the Image Culture.

I am starting my little rebellion on the trip to Sicily saying BASTA. No doubt it will be tough but I need to try.

Herewith I promise to work hard on my Polish and English, to make the lecture a pleasure not a struggle.

PREFACE

My short adventure on Sicily had started as usual I just bought the cheapest ticket for a flight to a sunny destination in Europe. Michał called this the monthly sunshine dose which perfectly suits my attitude to this weekend brakes. After being asked where Sicily is, yes not everyone knows that ( and I am not so sure if everyone must know; Can you point, without hesitation, where Philippines are?) I decided to publish a map each and every time, to make sure everyone knows where were the pictures taken.

This was my second "trip" to Italy this year, and happily I am once again positively surprised. The weather, as for winter, was just marvellous, sunny, blue skies, +16... I felt like in a summer time in London (!).

During this 3 days I visited Trapani, Palermo, Catania and Syracuse.

Gelatti.

PALERMO

Don't go to Cuba, it is not worth visiting La Habana... Trust me. Palermo in it's spatial structure looks like Havana. The same, tall, narrow and cosy streets with fresh laundry hanging from balconies and loggias, the same neglected, falling apart splendid houses, kids running around, palm trees, cobblestone streets ( well If I analyse a bit longer I observe remarkable similarities between Palermo, La Habana and Odessa)

It is such a shame, that the city is turned back from the Tyrrenhian Sea and you cannot go for mid-afternoon walk.

CATANIA

I went there because Giancarmelo told me:There is the Santa Agata festival,you must go there, this will be amazing experience.( and for the record my flatmate is Italian and Catanian). I was a bit sceptical - going to unknown city, not knowing anyone, for one day just to see religious festival and procession. ( not seeing actual city) There were fireworks at the very beginning, the procession started at Piazza del Duomo and lasted all night until midday...Men and some women in white gowns ( it used to be reserved for men only, but...) were pulling the rope attached to the altar with relic of Santa Agata or carrying monstrous 2-meters tall, massive, wax candles; there were stands with fried nuts with caramel and honey, sweets and all you would expect to buy during church fair. The city was paaaaacked. You couldn't possibly walk, I felt the tension, the excitement...

Streets in Catania are made of black volcanic stones and oriented in a very particular way, the one going from north to south are finished with Etna or Sea view respectively. The volcano and the Sea used to determine the life of the people. In heathen times everyone was afraid of Volcano's rage, so on the main square they raised the statue of elephant made of volcanic rocks, which was supposed to calm it down.

SYRACUSE

I don't even know how to start. Imagine that in the middle of crappy, grey, sad winter you arrive to the splendid square, the sky is just blue, sun is shining and the shadows are strong once again, in the way you can easily read the line between shaded and exposed area, marble floor, white facades, window's shutters ...you can hear this kind of city rumour that I love, sound of people talking, chatting, laughing, kids screaming ( in other words no cars, planes, helicopters, honks).

On the Piazza del Duomo there are two churches. Each one is more intriguing. When I entered the first one I though it is one of the late baroque churches with rich decoration and hideous interior.I couldn't be more wrong.

The beautiful blending of architectural styles is evident in the internal aspects of the Cathedral. The Doric columns date from the days when a Temple of Athena stood on the site, but in the Seventh Century, when the first Christian church was built there, the columns were incorporated into its structure, linking the worship of the past, with the present. Your hear starts beating faster.

On the other side of the piazza I enter to very modest 17th century church of Santa Lucia, which will be probably one of the Italian churches if there was not Caravaggio painting: Seppellimento di santa Lucia.You can just simply enter and have your time with the masterpiece and no one is going to disturb you. I had a feeling that is kind of intimacy with art is rare.

Unfortunately the ruins of Greek Syracuse were closed during the winter time.... And that is a very good reason to come back.

All comments are welcome.